Having lived in Scotland for most of my life, It’s shocking how little I’ve taken advantage of its landscape. The highlands and islands are so accessible, being only a short few hours drive away from both Glasgow and Edinburgh, and with convenient train lines and buses, there’s really no excuse. When asked whether I go skiing, hiking, or even just walking in Scotland, I’m embarrassed by my poor response.
Visiting the Pyrénées, then, has inevitably been high on my list of things to do during my time in France. The school holidays gave me the perfect opportunity to finally pack up my rucksack and get outdoors.
Sarah (my au pair friend) and I decided to base ourselves in Lourdes for the short trip. It seemed the obvious choice due to its proximity to the mountains, its array of cheap accommodation options, and its ease of access – being only a two hour drive from Toulouse.
Lourdes itself is a bit of a strange place, if you’re looking for a city break with lots to do after hours, head elsewhere. The entire town is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and attracts shed loads of Catholic pilgrims all year round. The upside of this is the stunning church impossibly built upon a cavernous rock just outside of the centre, the downside is the odd and slightly ironic touristic bent of the town, with flourescent souvenir shops lining every street, and selling anything and everything dedicated to Catholicism.
The Pic du Jer was our first ‘climb’. The mountain is hard to miss as it composes the dramatic landscape surrounding Lourdes. Its terrifying hundred-year-old funicular runs every thirty minutes, and a round trip will set you back only 10 euros. At the top there are a variety of different walking routes that wind around the mountain’s peak. The views are incredible, and allow you to appreciate Lourdes from an aerial perspective, linking the flat and sprawling land to the north, to the mountainous terrain to the south.
The town of Cauterets was the following day’s mountain destination. I was pleasantly surprised by the pretty little ski town, which could not be further removed from the grey and dreary Lourdes. According to my Google findings, this was our best bet for finding walking trails, and its large and welcoming tourist office certainly didn’t disappoint; with an array of activities for every outdoorsy type you could think of. We went along with their advice and headed further south to the Pont d’Espagne.
After the most scenic thirty minute drive known to man, scaling impossibly upwards along a winding mountain road (which must boast the most waterfalls ever recorded per square mile), we reached a vast car park which could cater for thousands of walkers and climbers all year round.
We decided to take a hiking route to Lac de Gaube, a name instantly recognisable to me (thanks again Google) as one of the most beautiful lakes to be found in the Pyrénées. The hike was pleasant and not too tough for a beginner like myself, plus the thought of a blissful picnic involving chocolate at the end of it was enough to keep me going. On our way up we met Annika, a German teaching assistant who we discovered is also living in Toulouse. We ended up driving back together and having yet another picnic that night. Funny how things can span out sometimes – friends in high places anyone?
Salut Toulouse 